This is a growing list of links and information

(I add them as I go and as time allows)


The information contained here is only from my research or what I have experienced or do.  I do not

claim to know everything, nor am I a vet.  I am in no way responsible for stating that something

has worked for me, should it not work for you.

Lots of information out there which you can research, this is just to give you a start

Virtual Puppy Packet

In the past I have always provided a puppy packet at pick up that contained a lot of information.

It took a lot of time to put all the pages together, and I can only guess most of it never gets looked at.

I have now put together links here that are very similar to what I included previously.  

I ask if you are picking up a puppy please look over the topics below that I have marked with an astract as well as the individual

topics that I have typed out in detail on this page. 

There will still be a couple pages in your packet along with Registration App, Contract, Microchip Info, Health Record, and s CD of your puppy.

Below Links also under Info Tab



Please do not leave empty dog food bags, chip bags, cereal boxes, etc laying around.

The smell or left over particles entice your pet to stick his head in to get out the crumbs.  These bags can

get stuck on their head, deflate and suffocate your dog.


Beware when leaving a collar on your puppy.  Collar tags are good for identification but they can also be a hazard should

they get hung on something which leads to your puppy choking.   If you live in a house with floor registers (vents) a tag

fits perfectly between in them and may not pull straight out therefore enabling a dog to choke.

Your puppies come microchipped which is a good form of identification but requires it to be scanned should it get lost.

The chip is registered in your name so you can be contacted.   This is NOT like a GPS and tracks your dog.


I am NOT a fan of Dog Parks and you would probably be surprised to know that neither is your Dog !

Taking your dog to a dog park is comparable to a person be dumped among a big group of strangers.

Dogs have different personalities just like people do, some can handle the stress, some do not.  Some are

timid which comes off as weak to other dogs, and others are bullies or tendency to be aggressive.

The people that own the dogs at the dog park can be attentive, while others are distracted either by conversation or 

cell phones.  Either way, do all owners know how to read the behaviors or their dog?  Can they predict what will

happen next?  Do they know what to do if there is an altercation among 1 to several dogs?  Do they or yourself know 

when its best to remove your dog from a situation?   Never believe what someone else says about their dog, they are dogs and

in a pack dynamic things are a lot different and things can go south really quick.  

There have also been reports of dogs dying after being at a dog park.  There is a growing number of lunatic anti-pet people (aka: Animal Activist) 

that have a belief better off dead.  Antifreeze has been left out around the park for thirsty dogs, as well as dog treats

laced with poison.  If you must go, walk the park with your dog on leash and be observant.

Also, if you must go, look for times when it is near empty or only a few dogs there.   As an option find people you know that

have dogs and plan small group doggie play time with dogs that your dog will become familiar with if not already. 

 Your dog will thank you.  They really just want to spend time with you and do things together.


Too Much, Too Often  -  Research "Vaccinosis"

Too many vaccines especially given together can cause some Immune Mediated Problems

I firmly  believe in Dr. Jean Dodds, DVM Vaccination Protocol   - "but do your own research" 

  Dr. Dodds’ Vaccination Protocol

9 – 10 weeks of age

Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV

e.g. Merck Nobivac (Intervet Progard) Puppy DPV

14 – 15 weeks of age

Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV

18 weeks of age

Parvovirus only, MLV

Note: New research states that last puppy parvovirus vaccine should be at 18 weeks old.

1 year old

Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV

A Rabies Vaccination is required by Law.   (Going forward after the annual booster at approx 16mos old,  it is possible to get a vaccination

 that will be good for 3 years, so ask your vet)

Because this vaccine is very hard on the Immune System, I ask that my puppies not be given a Rabie vaccination within 2 weeks of any other 

vaccine.    Vets usually want to give a Rabie shot the same day you are there for the 3rd &  final puppy shot.  This is also true should you

 opt to give a Lepto vaccine. 

 A note about Lepto (yes it is a zoonotic disease), but the vaccine will only prevent a few different strains when in fact there are MANY 

other strains which it gives no protection.

  There have been more reports of adverse reactions to a Lepto vaccine than any other.  I have been told in the last 1-2 years that the

 Vanguard L5 vacc is relatively safe.  I do not give Lepto to any of my dogs, but that is a decision that you need to make. 

 Do NOT do it just because your vet wants to give it    (and usually at the same time as all the others)  Think about it, if your puppy 

immune system  gets compromised and gets sick, who gets to make more money?  Just sayin'   By all means, Not all Vets are like 

this but I have known a few that are!   Most will do as you ask, you just have to know to Ask.

As a rule, your other vaccinations for Distemper, Parvo etc are not required by law or annually unless you are boarding your pup.

It has been proven that vaccines last in your dogs system way way beyond a year.  Here, after that booster at 1 year I do not give 

another full booster for 3-4 years (except  Rabies and most of my dogs are on the 3 year Rabies Vaccine)

If Parvo is running rampant in my area then I might slip a Parvo "only" vacc in about midway.  I use NeoPar for that


Heartworms can be Deadly.  Preventative is much cheaper than Treatment for a Positive case.

The main ingredient in Heartworm Preventative is either Ivermectrin, or Milbemycin which are both on the 

MDR-1 cautious drug list.  The preventatives, Interceptor, Sentinel, Heartguard, etc if dosed properly per

weight of the dog at an interval not less than 30 days is said to be safe according to WSU.   If you were unfortunate and

had a pup get mange the treatment would call for Ivermectrin in large amounts & numerous times, this 

could cause neurological issues or even death to a herding breed dog like your puppy.

I personally like using Interceptor Plus (heartworm preventative & dewormer including Tapeworms) with 2nd choice

being Sentinel.  I also only give it every 45 days since it involves the life cycle of a mosquito.

Sentinel will treat (heartworm and as dewormer except Tapeworms), or Sentinel Spectrum

which does the same as Sentinel + flea prevention. 

They also now make a Proheart 6 Injection that will last for 6 months - Please do NOT do this

Anything that stays in a dogs system for 6months cannot be healthy, especially when the breed is already sensitive.

**  Heartworm Preventative is by Prescription only, and I ask that you start this at the 16wk vet visit.

If the vet does not carry what you want to give, most will write you a prescription and you can get it filled online.


I honestly don't have anything good to say here.  I do not think there is a product on the market that is remotely safe.

I have been fortunate so far, not to have a huge problem

I have read a lot and what works for 1 person doesnt work for someone else.   Some have had no reactions, while 

others have had serious reactions to the same product. 

If you only have 1-2 dogs, I would try to keep it as Natural as possible :  There are sprays using essential oils

that you can find online and some use Human Food Grade DE (Diatomaceous Earth) with success.

I definitely avoid Trifexis !  The individual ingredients are safe, but when combined together they are NOT.

Bravecto works BUT again something that last in the system for 12 weeks is NOT healthy.

Nexguard has mixed reviews (I have used this periodically with no issues, but usually its not something I use monthly)

I have used Frontline Plus successfully, but I do not put the whole dose in 1 spot.

Seresto collars (8 month flea collar) I have used 1-2 times years ago with no issue. 

I have been one of the fortunate ones thus far


My favorite toy for crate time are the Stuffed Kongs.  I make sure they are true "Kongs" and not a knock off brand.

Some knock offs are very similar but may be missing the small hole at the other end of the toy.  When there is no hole, the dogs tongue 

can cause a vaccum inside the toy and the tongue become stuck.

I usually stuff my Kongs with Plain Yogurt or Peanut Butter (check to make sure no Xylitol) and then freeze them before serving.

I like to play interactive games with my puppies (hide the kibble under cups, toss kibble in a size appropriate box and have them jump in to get it)

Puppies need to be supervised when playing with toys, especially those that involve stuffing that can be swallowed, bones that

can be swallowed, etc.    Drop an empty water bottle inside a tube sock and tie a knot in it (thats a favorite & cheap).

Nylabones are good but needs to be monitored and if it starts to break apart toss it in the trash.

Although sometime a bit pricey, you can find all Natural Bully Sticks.  Dogs love them, but again watch closely and when they

chew them down too small toss them.

Typical Rawhide is a NO NO!  It cannot be digested if swallowed and will impact the intestine and require

surgery to correct.  PRESSED RAWHIDE MADE IN THE USA is suppose to be alright, but I avoid them all. 

Raw, natural Beef knee caps are suitable to chew on for an older dog, may upset the tummy of a puppy.    Never feed cooked bones

 as when cooked they become brittle and cause problems.  Yak Chews are good if your pet can tolerate them.  Some will use 

cow hooves, or antlers as chews but both of these items are incredibly hard on teeth.  Known to cause breakage and/or fractures.


TRIMS:  As a breed they require minimum trimming.  Please do NOT shave your puppy even in the Summer Time.

Once you shave them, their coat will never be the same!

It is good to keep the hair trimmed from underneath their feet they will track in less dirt.  Trim under their ears so that the ears

can lay down nice against their head.   Can trim the rear britches which is usually referred to as a "sanitary trim" plus the 

long hairs off the docked tail of your puppy.    Thats it, not much to do

TOENAILS:  Keep toenails short.  This should really be done weekly.  There are many videos online if you do not know how to trim a nail.

Nails will bleed if cut into the quick, so please review to know where the nail ends and the blood begins.

TEETH:  Yes, in order for dogs to have fresh breath, they too need their teeth brushed.  NEVER use

human toothpaste most contain Xylitol and human paste does not taste like chicken.  Get toothpaste made

especially for furry friends.   They make a finger brush that slides on your finger and you can lightly brush the outside

of the teeth (do not have to do the inside, the tongue will keep that clean enough).  Try to get in the habit of doing this 1 time a week. 

 Some dogs will let you use an actual toothbrush with doggie toothpaste. 

The water additives I do not feel work very well and can get expensive.

BATHS:  Unless your puppy/dog gets into something and become smelly, a bath once every 30days

is sufficient.  A bath too often will strip out the natural oils in the coat and your pet can become

dry & itchy and the coat will become dull.   I always use a conditioner after a shampoo as well. 

I like shampoos that have Aloe in them, most will also have Oatmeal which helps soothes skin.

The Grooming Tools you will Use the Most will be Dog Nail Trimmers, Pin Brush, and an Undercoat rake

(not a Furminator).  I have pictures of these items on the General Store Tab.

When your puppy becomes an adult and you wish to do the baths yourself, you will also

want to dry them.  Get them accustomed to a hand held human dryer while a puppy, then amp it up with an actual

dog dryer.  has a relatively cheap blow dryer ($89) that I use here sometime.

It is a little louder than my $400+  blower but it gets the job done.


Exercise is great for tiring out your puppy, but to over do it can be harmful.

Puppies should not be jumping or running distances until growth plates are closed (most close by 12-18mos)

This means No Jumping on and off the couch or bed, no jumping for frisbees, and no agility.  

You can start your puppy doing frisbee rollers on the ground, and for agility nothing over wrist high up to 6 mos,

nothing over elbow high for the 1st year.  Stairs are also hard on a puppy with joints that have not closed. Be prepared to carry 

them up and down.   

Be thoughtful when exercising your puppy but don't be scared to do so.

I would limit the slow casual walks to 10-30 minutes 1-2 times a day, starting at 10mins and increasing

as your puppies grow to about 5-6 months.

Do not force a puppy to run or jog, they can do that as they play off leash in the back yard.

As your dog becomes an adult, please make sure the dog gets Plenty of Exercise and does NOT become OBESE.

Obesity is a main reason for many health problems (no different than humans)

You should always be able to feel your dogs ribs (a rib next to a slight valley, then a rib) similar to what you 

feel if you made a fist and felt over you knuckles.  Ask your vet to show you proper condition or research online. 


Click HERE


Contact your vet or AKC Vetline as soon as possible. 

Or call the Pet Poison Helpline (855-764-7661) for accurate advice.

 (You will be charged a fee when you call the helpline.)